Ennju

Forgive the confusion. Ennju seems to have superseded their own expectations, to all of our benefit. There’s a sushi counter and some cold treats along a low refrigerator leading to the register where you order the rest. The primary menu is simple: A few sushi staples, a dozen or so udon bowls and just as many rice dishes. It’s not clear where to order from first, and then it becomes even less clear how many options there really are.

A laminated sheet with today’s rice special? Sure, I’ll take a look. Someone said pork Shumai, but where are they? This looks like a self-serve cold bar, but I can hardly reach the back row, it’s practically behind the register. Is that a sake menu? I can pour my own soup? With unlimited scallions and seaweed?! FROZEN MOCHI BALLS!!?

These are some thoughts you’ll have the first time and that time only. Ennju makes fine use of a small space, squeezing a refrigerator or freezer full of goodies in places they most certainly didn’t expect to once upon a time.

The noodle and rice dishes hit the right spot, for a fair price. The self –serve miso soup is the best around as far as we can tell (RIP SOUEN). There’s a glut of pickled treats, seaweed and fishy dishes of things you can try just a bite of. It’s a delightful spread, one that’s affordable but vulnerable to all those three dollar sides yielding a suddenly massive and solitary buffet.

Try everything, if nothing else than because you can. You’ll fall victim to the intrigue immediately, but the second trip will clear it all up.